"one of the most enjoyable days' mountaineering I've ever had": First Edition of Wilfrid Noyce's South Col: One Man's Adventure on the Ascent of Everest 1953; Signed by Him
London: William Heinemann Ltd, 1954.
First edition of Noyce’s firsthand account of the ascent of South Col. Octavo, original cloth, illustrated endpapers, illustrated with photographs, maps. Signed by the author on the title page, “Good wishes Wilfrid Noyce.” Near fine in a near fine price-clipped dust jacket, contemporary name on the verso of the front free endpaper. Foreword by Sir John Hunt. Uncommon signed as Noyce passed away in a mountaineering accident in 1962.
First Edition of Edward Whymper's Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860-69; Inscribed by Him to Fellow Alpinist Thomas Bonney
London: John Murray, 1871.
First edition of the author’s classic work on mountaineering, the first to help promote the very notion that peaks are meant to be climbed. Octavo, original cloth, 23 plates and numerous illustrations after drawings by Whymper; 5 folding maps. Inscribed by the author to the geologist and Alpinist Thomas Bonney , “from his obedient servant–the Author.” Also tipped in is a cordial 2 1/2-page letter signed from Whymper dated London, 15 June 1871, presenting this copy to Bonney, with additional comments on geological topics and book reviewing (“If I am asked to suggest reviewers, could you spare time to cut up ‘Scrambles’?”).
First Edition of The Conquest of Everest; Signed by John Hunt, Edmund Hillary, George Lowe, Charles Evans and James Morris
New York: E.P. Dutton, 1954.
First edition of this classic account of the first ascent of Mount Everest. Octavo, original half cloth, illustrated with 8 pages of photographs in full color, and 48 pages in black and white, maps, sketches and drawings. Foreword by Prince Philip, The Duke of Edinburgh. Boldly signed on the front free endpaper in a contemporary hand by John Hunt, Edmund Hillary, George Lowe, Charles Evans and James Morris. The 1953 British Mount Everest expedition was the ninth mountaineering expedition to attempt the first ascent of Mount Everest, and the first confirmed to have succeeded when Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay reached the summit on Friday, 29 May 1953. Led by Colonel John Hunt, it was organized and financed by the Joint Himalayan Committee. News of the expedition’s success reached London in time to be released on the morning of Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation, 2 June. Charles Evans was John Hunt’s deputy leader on the expedition. With Tom Bourdillon, he made the first ascent of the South Summit, coming within three hundred feet of the main summit of Everest on 26 May 1953, but was forced to turn back. George Lowe helped prepare the route up the Lhotse Face towards the South Col at close to 8,000m altitude. On May 28th, Lowe, Alfred Gregory and Sherpa Ang Nyima, all carrying heavy loads, set out with Hillary and Tenzing as the support party for their summit attempt. Camp IX was established at 8,500m, then Lowe, Gregory and Ang Nyima descended to the South Col. The following day, May 29th, Hillary and Tenzing successfully reached the summit of Mount Everest. Lowe went on to direct a documentary film during the expedition, entitled The Conquest of Everest that was nominated for an Academy Award for Best Documentary Feature. James Morris wrote for The Times, and in 1953 was its correspondent accompanying the British Mount Everest Expedition. Fine in a very good dust jacket.
"Is it true? Have we really been there?": First Edition of Felice Benuzzi's No Picnic on Mount Kenya
London: William Kimber, 1952.
First edition in English of this mountaineering classic recounting the 1943 attempt of three escaped Italian prisoners of war to reach the summit of Mount Kenya. Octavo, original cloth, map endpapers. Very good in a very good dust jacket with some chipping to the crown and overall wear, tape repair to the verso. Rare in the original dust jacket.
"If we can pull it off it would be the biggest possible thing still to be accomplished in Himalayan mountaineering": First Edition of Everest: The West Ridge; Inscribed by Thomas Hornbein
San Francisco: Sierra Club.
First edition. Folio, original cloth. Warmly inscribed by author, “To _____ _______ Maturity is best to always be approaching. Good climbing, whatever your Everest may be. Tom Hornbein.” Very good in a very good dust jacket that shows some wear and tear.
First Edition of Jon Krakauer's Eiger Dreams: Ventures Among Men And Mountains; Lengthily Inscribed by Him
New York: Lyons & Burford Publishers, 1990.
First edition of Krakauer’s first book. Octavo, original half cloth. Presentation copy, inscribed by the author on the half-title page in the year of publication, “For Deborah- Stay loose, Climb hard! Congratulations on climbing Denali. You did better than I. Jon Krakauer October 1990. Near fine in a fine dust jacket. Jacket design by Paul Shaw. Jacket cover photograph by Jon Krakauer. Jacket back cover by Marc Twight.
New York: Doubleday & Company, 1958.
First American edition of the author’s classic work. Octavo, original cloth, pictorial endpapers. Signed by Eric Newby on the title page. Near fine in a very good dust jacket with light rubbing and wear. Although not marked this copy is from the library of travel collector, Mary Anna Marten, who was the daughter of the 3rd and last Lord Alington of Crichel and later trustee of The British Museum.
Large signed black and white photograph of Edmund Hillary, who on May 29, 1953, along with Tenzing Norgay, became the first climber to reach the summit of Mount Everest as part of the ninth British expedition led by John Hunt. In fine condition. Double matted and framed. The photograph measures 13 inches by 10 inches. The entire piece measures 19.25 inches by 16 inches. A striking example.
"The real measure is the success or fall of the climber to triumph, not over a lifeless mountain, but over themself": First Edition of The Ascent of Everest; Inscribed by John Hunt
London: Hodder & Houghton, 1953.
First edition of this account of the 1953 British conquest of Everest. Octavo, original blue cloth, with eight color photographic plates, 48 half-tone plates and many in-text illustrations after pen-and-ink sketches. Presentation copy, inscribed by the author on the dedication page, “For S.W. Norman, who helped so much to make this possible John Hunt.” Near fine in a near fine dust jacket. Jacket design by W. Heaton Cooper. Chapter 16 is Sir Edmund Hillary’s stirring account of the final part of the climb, and the appendices are by members of the expedition. Foreword by H.R.H. The Duke of Edinburgh.
"It is not the mountain we conquer, but ourselves": First Edition of High Adventure; Signed by Edmund Hillary
London: Hodder & Stoughton, 1955.
First British edition of Hillary’s account of his ascent of Everest. Octavo, original blue cloth, with maps by A. Sparks and sketches by George Djurkouic. Boldly signed by Edmund Hillary on the front free endpaper in a contemporary hand. Fine in a very good dust jacket with some tears and chips.